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How much do suits cost?
- The base price starts at $443 shipped in the continental USA via USPS Priority Mail. This is for “standard” super120 wool fabrics. Many of the newer fabrics are a higher grade and the surcharge varies on material. Outside of the USA please add $20 for delivery via USPS airmail. Some countries require Express shipping which will incur a $35 surcharge.
How long does it take for delivery?
- Approximately 3-4 weeks before it is ready to ship to you, whereupon transit rates apply from therein.
Do you do rush orders?
- We try to be as accommodating as possible so we will try our best to fulfill genuine rush requests. However we advise you have a “Plan B” in case the deadline is not meet-able or in case the fit is so off you cannot wear it. If the suit in question is for a wedding, our policy is that it must be ordered at least 2 months prior to your date, to account for any unexpected delays or fit issues. If need be, you may be required to pay for a quicker delivery method at your cost.
What is the house cut?
- Jacket construction:
Double 6” vents
Full canvas construction
Horn buttons
Jacket length approx 1.5-2” longer than bottom of sleeve length
Structured shoulders with very minimal padding
Functioning lapel buttonhole
Pick stitching
Sleeve buttons number (+1) from front button total
- Trouser construction:
Frogmouth front pockets
Single rear pocket on right side with button closure
Belt loops
10.5” rise on standard waist sizes (30-34”)
- 1 button peak lapel jacket on sizes 36-40:
2.5” peak lapel width
Angled pockets with overlapping ticket pocket
- 1 button notch lapel jacket on sizes 36-40:
2” notch lapel width
Horizontal pockets with overlapping ticket pocket
- 2 button notch lapel jacket on sizes 36-40:
2” notch lapel width
Horizontal pockets with overlapping ticket pocket
- 3 button notch lapel jacket on sizes 36-40:
2” notch lapel width
Lapel roll to top button (true 3 button)
Horizontal pockets with overlapping ticket pocket
- 3 button notch lapel sack jacket on sizes 36-40:
2” notch lapel width
3 roll 2 lapel to the middle button
Flapped patch pockets
What is the “conservative” cut?
- Lapels widened to 2.5 – 2.75”
- Jacket length 1-1.5” longer than house cut
- Trousers less tapered thru leg, resulting in more relaxed fit
- Ticket pocket made traditional (no overlap)
- Trouser pockets side-slant (no frogmouth)
What can I customize from the house cut?
Thick as Thieves offers a very specific house cut and feel that the best results are those that don’t deviate from it, however we are happy to slightly alter the design to accommodate more conservative clients.
- Lapel width can be widened up to 3”. We will not make lapels wider than 3”.
- Jacket length can be lengthened or shortened. Contrary to popular belief, there is no standard jacket length. Length is determined by the wearer’s height and arm length and is intended to be shorter than normal, ending just below the wrist level. We will lengthen the jacket to be closer to normal by request. (Usually by adding 1-2” to the length). Button placement is done in relation to the jacket length so if we lengthen (shorten) the jacket, the buttoning points will be adjusted to reflect the change in cut.
- Trousers can be requested to be more relaxed and less tapered thru the leg.
- Trousers only have one rear pocket on wearer’s right side. We can add a 2nd.
- Trousers have frogmouth pockets. We can make them standard slant opening.
- Trousers have belt loops. We can put side tabs (either buckle or button) instead of loops. We will not do suspender buttons as our cut and suspenders do not work well together, visually.
- Jackets have overlapping ticket pocket. We can either make a standard non-overlapping ticket pocket or remove it altogether.
- 3 Button jackets can be made with a 3/roll2 lapel that is intended to button at middle only
- You can mix/match features from within house styles. ie: You can have a peak lapel one button jacket with horizontal pockets, or a 3 button notch lapel jacket with angled pockets, as 2 examples.
How do I get measured?
- Due to the wildly inaccurate measurements we receive from those who went to a professional tailor, we feel you can do a very accurate self measurement yourself with a tape measure and a friend.
- Make sure all measurements are taken snug, not tight, and definitely not loose. The fewer articles of clothing you measure over, the better.
- We recommend taking multiple sets of measurements just to make sure you are getting the same results each time.
- If you do go to a tailor’s to get measured, we still recommend doing a set yourself and comparing the two. It’s amazing how different a tailor’s measure and your own self measure can result. And most of the time your measurement is actually the accurate one.
- Why are tailors’ measurements so often inaccurate? Many pad the measurement since they are probably used to a looser fit being “correct”. Sometimes they give you an interpreted measurement, meaning rather than the raw measure off the body, they give you the size that the garment should have. If you do go to a tailor, make sure he is giving you raw measurements off the body, done snugly.
What if my suit doesn’t fit?
- We can only make based on measurements given so we ask those submitting measurements to be sure of them as much as possible. Ideally, taking a few sets of measurements for those who are novices at this is the best thing to do. This way you can see if you are getting consistent measurements without much discrepancy.
- Providing more info on other brands (jeans, suits, shirts etc) you wear is always helpful in getting a full picture of your build and proportions.
- If you do not readily know your jacket sleeve length, we ask you to get nonfunctional sleeve cuffs that can be easily adjusted. Basically, if you have to ask how to measure sleeve length, then it’s better to get nonfunctional cuffs for your first suit. All finished suits are re-measured compared to the client’s original specs given to make sure they are as accurate as possible, before they are shipped.
- Even with a MTM process (and even full bespoke), many finished suits may require fine tuning that can be accomplished with your local tailor. There is rarely such thing as “the perfect fit”, especially as everyone has a different image in mind when they think of this “perfect fit”.
- If there is an obvious flaw in material or construction we will make sure you are properly sorted out and the problem fixed without any cost to you. If the problem is due to erroneous measurement on the client’s part, we will work with you to solve the problem at the least cost to you as possible. But we are not liable for blatantly erroneous measurements that are provided to us, resulting in an ill-fitting garment. Unfortunately that is the risk of a sight unseen MTO program.
Do you do CMT (customer provided fabric)?
- Yes, but only after you have ordered a suit using our house fabrics and are certain the pattern we have drafted for you fits how you like. We do not do CMT on first suits.
I am local in the Los Angeles area, can you meet up to take my measurement and show me samples?
- Yes I will meet with prospective clients to take their measurements and show fabric and suit samples. If you are within a size 36-42, I bring a sample jacket for a rough fitting to see which basic pattern fits you best. Meetups are done in Pasadena, M-F preferably around 5:45 (or later). Sat and Sun are at my discretion and availability. There is no commitment to purchase if you meet for a measurement/sample showing.
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